Frequently asked questions

Le Mary Celeste Oysters, natural wine, bay windows opening onto a bustling side street in the summer — what more could you ask of an always-busy corner bar that’s open until 2 a.m.? Perennially crowded with hip locals and visitors vying for seats around the wooden bar, Le Mary Celeste is one of my favorite places to both kick off and end my nights. Café La Perle There may not be a better place for people-watching than Café La Perle, on Rue Vieille du Temple. Parisians flock here for all sorts of reasons, but the only two in my book are for a 14-euro carafe of rosé and to try flirting in French with the well-dressed crowds that spill out onto the sidewalk on summer evenings. Little Red Door You’d be forgiven for walking right past the eponymous little red door that’s set back from the street on Rue Charlot, were it not for the queue of English speakers lined up outside this world-famous speakeasy. On the list of the World’s 50 Best Bars, Little Red Door serves up “farm-to-glass” cocktails alongside a beautifully photographed menu that profiles the producers behind each essential ingredient. Walk-ins can be tricky, particularly on weekends. The bar also offers a 70-euro cocktail tasting menu, which can be booked in advance. Best Restaurants Patios of restaurants Leopoldine Bauer/Travel + Leisure Les Enfants du Marché Hidden among the fruit vendors and fragrant food stalls of Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, you’ll find a gastronomic mirage of sorts: Less than a dozen stools circle a counter where dishes are plated with Michelin-level precision, and wines flow from noon onward. Local produce and fresh seafood rule the menu at Les Enfants du Marché, with recent delights including tuna crudo from the south nestled alongside scallops from the north and pears from Normandy — la belle France on a plate. Breizh Café Savory Brittany-style buckwheat galettes are loaded with aged Comte, Basque chorizo, and onions caramelized in cider at this iconic crêperie. Breizh Café, whose most charming outpost in Paris remains this sun-soaked corner of the Marais, is my first stop on almost every trip. The warm, wooden space feels like a homecoming. Bistrot des Tournelles When it comes to classic bistro fare, few places do it as warmly and wonderfully as Bistrot des Tournelles. The menu is straightforward and superbly French: homemade foie gras, crunchy little gem salad with mustard dressing, and steak au poivre are highlights, plus a crackling crème brûlée. Carbonis This trendy Italian spot may actually be too sexy for its own good. Sure, the staff and clientele at Carboni's are universally gorgeous, but it’s the pasta dishes that are almost unbearably seductive. Cacio e pepe is topped with a "Tampopo"-worthy marinated egg yolk, while striped squid ink spaghetti is served with cream foam and melted raclette. After dinner, dip downstairs for a negroni and live music at Bar Sotto. Chez Janou When you settle into your red leather booth at Chez Janou, once you’ve taken in the posters dedicated to French filmmaker Marcel Pagnol and the platters of Provençal dishes going around, you’ll soon spot wide-eyed diners clapping in delight as waiters dollop chocolate mousse onto their plates again and again. It’s unlimited, and — along with the decor and extensive pastis selection — the real reason for coming here.

Merci I’ve never left Merci without un petit plaisir — a little treat — to take home. The three-story concept store is a souvenir mecca, with branded candles and lighters (adorable and affordable) most often taking up space in my suitcase. Anyone in need of retail therapy will find it here, among the brightly colored geometric side tables, matte ceramic tableware, and overwhelming selection of très Parisienne white button-downs. A Lot of Wine Looking to pick up wine for a picnic along the Seine? A Lot of Wine, which, as its name suggests, stocks quite an impressive array of bottles in its small space, is the place to go. Biodynamic bottles from Alsace sit beside aged rarities from the Jura, all of which are well-priced. Most notably, the staff will gladly talk through any questions you may have. On my last visit, I watched in envy as a family tucked into heaps of cheese and finely sliced charcuterie during a private tasting they’d arranged in the stone cellar. BHV Kitty-corner to the breathtaking, block-spanning Hôtel de Ville (Paris’ City Hall), the BHV lures shoppers seeking everything from hardware supplies to Hermès. It’s sort of an upscale Home Depot-meets-Bloomingdales, topped off with Le Perchoir, a trendy rooftop bar offering views of the Eiffel Tower during the summer season. Empreintes Remember what I said about window licking? It’s a favorite pastime of mine at Empreintes, an airy, multilevel concept store that feels markedly under the radar compared to Merci. Founded by the French federation of craft professionals, it’s a gallery-like space that’s brimming with hundreds of exceptional handmade goods — think statement jewelry, sculptural pendant lamps, and enough ceramics to merit buying an extra suitcase. Vintage Shops With kilo shops and thrift stores littering every other block of the Marais, it could take une éternité to track down a silk Chanel set or an oversized Isabel Marant coat — if you didn’t know to stop by Nice Piece, that is. The shop was long a gate-kept secret of Parisian It girls but is now a celebrity hot spot drawing the likes of Kim Kardashian and Janelle Monáe.